Surfing is one of those things the more I do the more I want. It’s pretty much the equivalent of sex, the longer I go without I forget how much I love it, and then when I am doing it again, I ask myself why I ever held out so long to do something that I love:) and this is a bit off subject but I just thought of something. I was going to go surfing when I was in Wales but it was bloody flat and I just don’t understand wetsuits, I mean there isn’t any tactile contact, I would imagine surfing with a wetsuit is the same thing as when you have sex with a condom, It’s kind of good and you can’t REALLY feel it, but hey you are still doing it! 🙂 ~PS I am all for safe sex so don’t get all crazy, I am just saying to go from surfing in Hawaii to surfing in a wetsuit in Wales isn’t really a step up mate.
So I go every couple weeks and I am saying after “YEAH I am surfing everyday!” And then I get caught up in school and work and weeks go by. Honestly I would take a whole year off and just surf everyday here. But really I am not a charger, I am not good really at all. I just like to have fun, I don’t think I possess the desire to ever charge huge waves, I have paddled out in some pretty massive places with my ex, and getting caught in those sets, getting held underwater and just praying you will come back up. That was enough to humble me back into my own comfort zone. It takes a special fucking person to charge big waves I have so much respect for those people I don’t think it’s in my DNA.
I don’t really give a shit if people are so concerned about what is cool, I just like to have a good time. I think it’s much better than the times I have been out and someone is surfing way out of their league and just getting in the way and putting everyone in danger. I am perfectly happy riding the summer waves, I had great days with my girlfriends just beautiful glassy days. On these days I think to myself these ten years of Hawaii of beauty, and struggle and all of it. These moments leave me feeling so clear and grateful..
I had a beautiful summer surfing, there were some days I devoted just to surfing and I honestly don’t think I could have been any happier than the end of my days where I would still be warm from the sun, eating good food, and drinking coconuts and sinking into your bed so exhausted in the best way, like the same feeling you get from skiing and snowboarding all day and coming in and showering and laying in soft blankets by the fire (I miss the snow) Ahhhh yes these are a few of my favorite things. And while I have no poetic words of wisdom this time for saying goodbye to my summer waves. I will await those days again. and be grateful for this existence. I love Hawaii I do…